Romy Voyages
The whole route, in the order it actually happened. A white van, one small road at a time, and far too much time spent finding coffee that was not terrible.
Paris, FranceSaint-Germain-des-Prés
Where this started. The bakery three streets back opens at seven and the queue starts at seven twenty, which is the only timetable that matters here. Spring
Paris, FranceLe Marais & Place des Vosges
Long afternoons and a car park that does not exist. Best coffee in the city is in a street with no sign on it, two doors past the bookshop. Spring
Paris, FranceSeine quays & the bridges
Walked the whole thing once in the rain. It is the one route in the city that asks nothing of you. Spring
Normandy, FranceÉtretat & the chalk cliffs
Two hours west. The cliffs are better in fog than in good weather, which nobody tells you. Early summer
Provence, FranceLuberon villages
Lavender in July, dust and silence the rest of the year. Stopped for six days and stayed nine. Summer
Côte d'Azur, FranceNice to Saint-Tropez
The coast road is worth doing slowly and early, before the traffic. Lunch is a €14 plate of anchovies and it is perfect. Summer
Swiss AlpsPasses & glacial lakes
Up higher than the van likes. The coffee up here is worse, the air is better. Late summer
Italian DolomitesAlpe di Siusi & the passes
Quiet in September, unbearable in February. Went in September. September
Lake Como & LombardyThe Italian lakes
Expensive, beautiful, and best seen from a side road with no name on the map. September
TuscanyRolling hills & cypress roads
Picked the wrong dirt track on purpose and it was the best afternoon of the trip. October
Black Forest & RhineGermany
Rain for four days straight. The van heater and a book were the whole plan. November
Portuguese AtlanticAlgarve cliffs
Last stop on this leg. Warm in a way that felt slightly unfair in November. November
Scottish HighlandsLochs & single track roads
Pulled over at 7:40 for the mist sitting flat on the water. The far shore never came out, and the coffee went cold in the mug while the van heater ran. November